What is most wonderful about this entire exchange experience is the ability to "practice what we preach" as teachers - to be a lifelong learner. While I was certainly prepared for a culturally enriching experience with my journey to the home of The Bard, a.k.a. William Shakespeare, I was not prepared for how educationally rich it would also be.
Micaela and I journeyed to this beautiful village by car, a relatively short distance by US standards; only a 1.5 hour journey. The distance to school on a daily basis is just shy of 30 minutes the travel distance to
Stratford, so I have more than enough experience driving over English roads to make this journey. Amazingly, a bus ride to this little town was going to take 5 hours and cost me over $130.00
USD for the two of us. It's not rocket science to figure out that driving made more sense. Armed with some fairly decent driving directions, thanks to the UK version of
mapquest, I was confident I would make it there easily - and indeed I did.
I opted to spend an extra day and night in
Stratford at my own expense, so I splurged on an additional night at the Shakespeare
Mercure, directly in the center of
Stratford and the same hotel where the British Council was paying for our
accommodations the following night. This hotel is a four-star hotel and stays true to its English
Tudor style, post-and-beam, white-washed architectural charms. All the rooms are named after characters or places familiar in Shakespeare's plays. Our room was the Antioch room - and was directly next door to the Shylock room. A kingdom run by an
incestuous king and a man who demands a pound of flesh as payment for a debt... glorious!
Micaela and I spent a great evening walking around the town, which was in the process of having its Christmas lights strung up. We tread upon cobblestones walked on by The Bard, himself, ate dinner at the oldest inn in town, the Garrick Inn, and enjoyed an evening of entertainment on a ghost tour...it was,
after all the eve before Halloween. We were entertained with stories of witchcraft, murder, fire and deaths all having taken place in and around the home of William
Shrieves, an archer to King Henry VIII. The home was once owned by King Henry VII and was bequeathed to the archer for his service to the king. The building has borne witness to plaque, fire, treason, murder and withcraft so it is a prime location for ghost storytelling. The best story we heard had to do with a little girl named Lucy, who died in the house but whose spirit will seek out the hand or jewelry or purses of people involved with children...I kid you not but I got instantly cold and chilled as this story was being told.
Micaela was especially freaked out by a story of a rapist and murderer who is said to have followed young attractive women out of the building on occasion unless you ask for William
Shrieves' protection!
In the morning we toured the historic homes all involved in the Shakespeare story. The Nash House on the site of New Place, where Shakespeare died; the
Hallscroft House, home of his
daughter and her husband a
renowned physician and we went to the Trinity Church to visit Shakespeare's grave. Later in the afternoon we met up with all our fellow US
Fulbrighters for a
pre-performance talk and presentation of Twelfth Night, the Royal Shakespeare Company performance we had journeyed to
Stratford to see.
It was great to meet up with everyone again and catch up with our experiences; although it was just one more time for me to regret that my experience, while just barely having begun, will be over in a short while, and my fellow teachers will remain for an entire year. (It is the single regret I have and a learning experience I will take away as a Fulbright
alumna...follow the advice given you and only do this for a full year. By the time you adjust and feel confident it is time to go home. ) Not to mention all the places in the UK I have yet to be able to visit... and probably won't get a chance to. Bright outlook though - one can always do this again!
The young woman associated with the Shakespeare Center, which adjoins the home of Shakespeare's parents and is now known simply as "the Birthplace", who led our
pre-performance discussion was very knowledgeable. The
pre-performance talk included everything, from a summary of the play, to a history of its different dramatic presentations and interpretations by
multiple directors and actors having taken part in its various productions. I listened to her pose thought provoking questions, challenge us with things to observe in the play and the experience of just listening to her share her knowledge made me feel like I was a student in an Advanced Placement Shakespeare course... it was discussion such as I have not been part of since my university days. It made me eager to see the performance later that evening. It also made me slightly jealous of her knowledge about Shakespeare and seemingly all things Shakespeare related!
After the talk we ventured on our tour of the "Birthplace" which began as interactive video experience. All the homes owned and operated by the Shakespeare Trust are kept in a true state as they would have been furnished and used in the Elizabethan Era. The
multiple admission ticket Micaela and I purchased got us in to each home and on Saturday, as we drove out of town we visited Ann Hathaway's Cottage - the place where their courtship would have begun.
The performance of Twelfth Night did not disappoint. The
director chose a
Turkish marketplace as a main setting for the performance which, while initially surprising, lent the production to an upbeat theatrical and musical production. The character of
Feste was especially entertaining, as was the interpretation of the "box tree". Following the performance, Micaela and I enjoyed our first
taste of Chinese food since arriving in the UK, as we opted for the take away service across from the hotel. I will say, we were pleasantly surprised by its authenticity and tastiness.
The next morning, we joined our Fulbright friends for breakfast and a post-performance discussion back at the Shakespeare Center, featuring our same instructor from the previous afternoon, and the actor who played the part of
Feste from the
RSC. Again, this
discussion was intellectually stimulating and provided some great information to take back to the classroom when working with Shakespeare's plays. I am now anticipating returning home to teach Macbeth, equipped with some powerful information!
All in all this was a fabulous weekend in another historically rich and quaint English town. The Avon river, and its swans is a sight to behold for any lover of historically rich countryside locations.