Visiting Hereford...again.

On Saturday I decided I would spend the afternoon in Hereford. It worked out just fine, since Micaela was to meet her new friends from school to do some shopping and to head off for a sleepover. I wanted to take a tour of the Hereford Cathedral and see the Mappa Mundi and Chained Library. Since photos are not allowed inside the exhibits, I only have photos of the exterior of the Cathedral.

The Cathedral has marvelous tapestries, some of the oldest and most beautiful stained glass windows I have ever seen, more tombs to priests and monks inside one building than I could imagine and some absolutely stunning stone and wood carvings which I dare not explain. Hereford Cathedral is the seat of the Bishop of Hereford. There has been a bishop in Hereford for over 12 centuries. The nave of the cathedral was first built in the 1100's and as it has evolved over the centuries, many different periods of architecture have influenced its design. One of the most stunning features on the exterior of the Cathedral is its tower, which dates from the 14th Century and is covered in "ballflowers"-flowers in stone. The Cathedral also includes "cloisters" which are not open to the public because they serve as private residences. One of the most remarkable pieces of value in the Cathedral is "King Stephen's Chair", so named because it is believed to be the throne used by King Stephen when he visited the Cathedral at Pentecost in 1138. It is a true medieval chair, simplistically designed and functional. Queen Elizabeth II has also used it on her visits to the Cathedral.

The Cathedral is also home to two valuable treasures, the Mappa Mundi and The Chained Library. There is also an original copy of The Magna Carta. The Mappa Mundi is a late 13th Century map of the world and is one of the most important medieval works of art still in existence. It is the largest and best surviving example of a type of cartography - in some respects it reminded me a lot of a giant concept map - it is more like a story than a map and it encompasses the history of time from Creation to Doomsday. It can best be described as a pictorial encyclopedia, and is arranged in such a way, that one wants to look at it sideways, as the North is located where our modern minds now associate West.

For more detailed information check out this link:

www.herefordwebpages.co.uk/mappamundi.shtml

The Chained Library is also unique. The bookcases and chains date from the early 17th Century , but the books housed in the library cases date from the 8th Century to the 19th Century. To appreciate the idea of a "chained library" one must understand the value of a book in relation to the early middle ages. Before the general populace could read, and before books were printed on printing presses, they were valuable works of art. Having been copied by hand by cloistered monks and bound in leather, they would be equipped with a chain that would attach to the book on one end, and the shelf above a lectern desk with the other end. The chain would be just long enough to reach the desk top so a person could read the book. This ensured that books would not be "overdue"...or walk away under a person's cloak! The earliest book in the library is also the Cathedral's oldest artifact: the Hereford Gospels, made in England on the Welsh border in the 8th Century. This volume contains the four gospels of Matthew, Mark , Luke and John- largely in Latin. Inside these books the vivid color inks used in the calligraphy and illustrations are largely preserved. It truly was amazing to see such an old collection of books. Another unique feature of a chained library is that books are shelved with the spines facing away from the reader, this was so that when books were taken off the shelf they would not have be turned, thus avoiding entanglement of the chains with other books. There are other chained libraries in England, as well.

I spent the remainder of my afternoon browsing through shops and walking through the pedestrianized area of the city center. It turned out to be Heritage Weekend in Hereford, and my self-guided walking tour brought me to the Town Hall. Also an amazing feat of architecture, with rich detail, built of brick and terra cotta at the turn of the 20th Century, the inside features two grand staircases and the building is somewhat reminiscent of the grand style of old Union Station in Worcester, but much more ornate and absolutely stunning.

It was a beautiful day in the city center, the sun shone all afternoon and early evening. I enjoyed my walk, the iced coffee from Starbucks, and I found myself purchasing my very first pair of Birkenstock footwear, as the flat sandals on my feet have proven to be ill for the walking through cobblestone streets and castles as I have been doing since arriving here. They are not the most fashionable shoe, but I must admit, they are comfortable - and better yet, they were on clearance!

It was fun to explore the many nooks and crannies of this center on my own. I found most interesting the names of shops and pubs and the menus offered. Look closely at the photos above and you will see what I mean.